Rudolf eickemeyer



(NoMode1-) MBYER.

Device-for Use with SewingMachin'es in Sewing Linings into Hats.

No.242,1;9|. Patented May 51,1881.

' shape, especially at the junction of side crown In my Letters Patent 1 -UNIITEDVV STATES PATENT OFFICE.

RUDOLF EIOKEME-YER, OF YONKERS, NEW YORK.

DEVICE FOR USE WITH SEWING-MACHINES IN SEWING LIN'INGS lNTO HATS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 242,191, dated May 31, 1881. I

7 Application filed April 5, 1880. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern: I

Be it known that I, RUDoLF EICKEMEYER, of Yonkers, in the county of Wcstchester and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Devices for Use with Sewing-Machines in Sewing Linings into Hats; and I do hereby declare that the following specification, taken in connection with the drawings furnished and forming apart of the same, is a clear, true, and complete descrip tion of my invention.

No. 58,622, October 9, 1866, I disclosed what I believe to have been novel with me--namely, a sweatlining' doubled and flared at the loweredge-whereby, because of the increased stiffness of lining at the edge, it served to maintain a true outline and contributed to keep the hat itself in and brim; but, as a substitute t'or'said doubled portion of the lining, a reed is now largely employed as a stifiener, both with and without the flared edge to the lining; and my present improvements relate to means whereby a sweat-lining and a covered reed may be conveniently and accurately stitched-into a hat, when employed with any suitable stitching mechanism and with a work-plate adapted'to the purpose.

In my Letters Patent Reissue l lo. 6,311, March 2, 1875, and No. 182,182, September 12, 1876, I have shown and described sewingmachineswith which my presentimprovements may be employedjbut with certain obvious changes in form they may be readily adapted to other machines somewhat differently constructed without departing. from my invention. In Letters Patent No. 182,182, at Figs. 2 and 3 of the drawings, I show an angular faced presser-foot so constructed that an unturned lining is thereby gaged with reference to the needle, so that the outer edge of the lining while being stitched is made to occupy precisely the position desired with reference to the junction of the surfaces 'of the inner side of the hat and thelower side of the brim; and my present improvements as herein embodied have for their object not only that same gag- 7 ing effect with reference to the lining, but in addition thereto the proper, delivery, control, and gaging effect upon a reed and its usual covering, so that the union with the hat of said reed, its cover, and the lining will be simultaneously, accurately, and neatly accomplished.

So far as my knowledge extends I am the first to devise guides or gages co-operating with each other and with the presser-foot of a sewing-machine, whereby a reed and its covering, a hat-lining, and a hat can be simultaneously presented to stitching mechanism for uniting the lining with the reed and its covering, and at the same time uniting them .to a hat; and although I broadly claim the combination of such gages with a presser-foot I which enables a reed, its covering, and a lining to be simultaneously united with each other and with a hat, the particular embodimerit of such combination hereinafter described and shown in the drawings is particularly adapted to control an unturned hat-lining and a covered reed; and in that connection my invention consists in a presser-foot arranged to occupy a hat side crown adjacent to the brim,

provided with a lining-gage slot open at the front edge of the presser-t'oot, and with a covered-reed gage which locates the reed beyond or outside of the inner end of the lining-gage slot, and delivers the edge of the reed-covering beneath the lining, so that the edge of the lining when in the path of the needle is closely adjacent to the reed, and also so that the reed covering and the lining are both pierced by the needle in making a line of stitching closely adjacent to the edge of the lining; lili Itisnotto beunderstoodthatlclaim,broadly, the combination of gages and guides whereby a cord and its cover may be united with a strip of leather or, other material on a sewing-machine, forsuch devices were shown and described in great variety in the Letters Patent of S. D. Tucker, No. 33,817, A. D. November 26,1861. Such devices, however, so far as my knowledge extends, were never, prior to my present invention, so combined with a suitable presser-foot as to admit of the simultaneous union of a reed, its cover, a lining, and a hat by stitching with a sewing-machine.

To more particularly describe my invention I will refer to the accompanying drawings, in

whichv Figure 1 represents, in side view, a presser foot embodying my invention and capable of use with the machine shown on Sheets 1 and 2 of the drawings of my Letters Patent No. 182,182, September 12, 1876. Fig.2 represents the same in top view. Fig. 3 represents the same in lateral section on line i Fig. 2. Fig. 4 represents the same in longitudinal section on line 2, Fig. 2. Fig. 5 represents a covered reed. Fig. 6 represents a portion of a hat lined by the use of my present improvement.

The an gular-faced presser-foot A is provided with a sleeve, (1, and a set-screw, a, whereby it is securely attached to a presser-bar, which is provided with the usual spring and controlling-lever. The presser-foot has also a needleslot, 1), and a lining-gage slot, 0, substantially as shown and described in my Letters Patent N 0. 182,182, to which, if need be, reference may be had for a more complete understanding of the positions respectively occupied by the work-plate, needle, and prcsser-foot, and the hat and its lining during the stitching operation.

The gage for the covered reed is shown at d. As shown in Fig. 2, it consists of an opening in the presser-foot between its end and the linng-gage slot 0. Its form in a general way corresponds with the sectional area of a reed and its covering, and it lies on both sides of the longitudinal lines occupied by the needle-slot and by the inner end of the lining-gage slot. As seen in Fig. 4, the upper surface of the presser-foot, in front of the reed-gage opening, is inclined downward toward the opening, and the lower surface of the pressenfoot, between the reed-gage and the lining-gage, is also similarly inclined, so as to permit the covered reed to smoothly pass through and into the opening horizontally toward the needle-slot. The interior surface of the rear portion of the presser-foot is longitudinally recessed at c, to afford a guiding-edge adjacent to the needle-slot, which prevents the reed from being unduly advanced toward and upon the brim, and assists in maintaining the reed and the edge of the lining in proper relative positions during the stitching operation.

The reedfis usually covered by a strip of thin fabric, g, folded around the reed and upon itself, as shown in Fig. 5. Sometimes this fabric is pasted together and sometimes stitched prior to stitching in the lining, and such a sep' arate stitching of the recd-coverin g can be obviously executed with my reed-gage.

The operation of stitching a lining and a co vered reed into a hat by the aid of the presserfoot and gages shown will be readily understood by persons skilled in the art, it being only necessary that the lining and covered reed be properly inserted in their gages and accurately adjusted for the first stitch, whereupon, with but little, if any, manipulation of the reed or lining, they will be respectively drawn through their gages by the feeding movement of the hat and accurately resented to the needle.

I am well aware that the reed-gage and the lining-gage may be so modified in their construction, and in their arrangement with relation to each other on a presser-foot, as to enable them to co-operatein the stitchin got turned linings and their reeds into hats, and such special gages in combination have already been constructed by me; and I do not, therefore, limit the main feature of my invention, herein described, to any precise construction and arrangement of the two gages; nor do I herein limit my invention to gages which are embodied in a detachable presser-foot, for I am well aware that the precise gages shown may be embodied in one device detachable from a prcsser-foot-as, for instance, the presser-foot shown may be constructed in two parts, separable on the line 00, Fig. 2, these parts being capable of union by means of a screw and plate, in which case both gages could be readily detached and replaced; orsaid presser-footmight be separable on the line no, in which case the reed-gage only would be capable of being detached and replaced, the remainder of the presser-foot, with the lining-gage, being precisely as shown at Fig. 3 of the drawings of my prior Letters Patent No. 182,182. Iprefer, however, the construction shown, because the presser-foot with the two gages may be employed, as indicated,for stitching in a plain lining or stitching a covering on a reed, or for stitching in the lining and a covered reed simultaneously.

The lower or outer edge of the lining may be a plain cut edge or it may be a flaring cut edge, or it may be doubled upon itself at the edge and made straight or made flaring, as shown in my Letters Patent No. 58,622, October 9,1866; but in all cases with the gages constructed as herein shown the lining is stitched straight through and through the side crown, as illustrated in Fig. 6, a hat being shown in section with the lining h, reedf, and its cover 9, the dotted lines h indicating the path of the needle.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- 1. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore described, of a presser-foot adapted to co-operate with stitching mechanism for lining hats, at lining-gage, and a gage for a reed and its covering, whereby a reed, its covering, and lining may be placed in proper position on a hat to enable them to be united by stitching onla sewing-machineand simultaneouslyunited to a hat, as set forth.

2. The presser-foot provided with the lininggage slot and the gage for a covered reed, substantially as shown and described.

RUDOLF EIGKEMEYER.

Witnesses HENRY OSTERHELD, GEORGE N ARR. 

